I've been working on a project to present a juried exhibition of the exciting possibilities using digital fabrication in a variety of art and design fields with one of my fellow graduate students, and I'm excited to share it with you! Link to the application form here:
Semester 3/6
Well, I made to the halfway point! How did that happen so fast? I feel like I just got to Graduate School. But then again, it feels like I've been part of the UNT Fashion Design Program for much longer (which, considering that I did my undergrad here 10 years ago, is partly true).
This semester finds me excited to find better balance in work/school/me time. And- so excited to continue working on my MFA show! I have clear direction now, and it's nothing like I would have thought when I started my graduate work. Digital technology, it felt, was in direct confrontation with my love of handcrafted, detailed, couture-like (and very time-consuming!) work. Perfection in aesthetic, fit, finish, and concept is what I strive to achieve in everything I make (even though I know it isn't possible), and I thought that using digital tools would take away from the "soul" that goes into these kinds of pieces. But then I got here, and discovered the fabulous FAB LAB and its laser cutters, 3D printers, and cnc machines. I realized it didn't take away from what I was doing; rather, it helped me push it even further. Amazing layers of texture and detail could be achieved, beyond what I could do alone.
The sewing machine was new "technology" at one point, but we never think of it as a shortcut in making clothes; rather, it helps us make even more amazing clothes. In the same way I want to use these exciting new tools such as the laser cutter, 3D printer, Digital printer, and more to help me make the most incredible, fascinating textures and textiles. I have so many ideas to try; lets get this semester started!
-K
Too Trendy
Came across this awhile ago, and I started a post around it but never finished my thoughts. It raises some amusing questions... I have no clue now where I found it.
A: They're very odd people, you know. When they're young, they have their teeth straightened, their tonsils taken out and gallons of vitamins pumped into them. Something happens to their insides! They become immunized, mechanized, air-conditioned and hydromatic. I'm not even sure whether he has a heart.
M: What is he? A creature from outer space?
A: No. He's an American.
Too much consumption of all things trendy, from health to aesthetics to nourishment to opinion. Life inches towards artificiality and shallowness, and no one even realizes it. Let's have more old-fashioned hands-on craftsmanship, and more personal responsibility in all aspects of life, and re-visit respecting others in the face of disagreements- not just when in agreement. Be a true original, not a trendy one.
-KR
Digital Fabrication
This summer, I am taking a class challenging me to use digital fabrication in my work, specifically using tools such as the laser-cutter, 3D printers, and CNC machines. It started off slow, and is building up to more complex objects. The first project was a paper-construction exercise, moving into using slots and folds to create objects. Currently, I am working on some 3D printed ideas. I'm keeping a blog in the online classroom space, so I thought I'd share a few images of what I've been up to here.
So far, I've learned a lot by being forced to learn the programs used to create the files better, as well as figure out how to be more "at one" with the laser cutters and 3D printers. Thankfully, we have the wonderful resource of a FabLab with free access to this kind of equipment, so I get to actually work with them, and figure out how to use these digital files I've created to tell them what to do. There have been many failures, but just as many happy successes- both planned and surprising! Below are a images of a few of the projects I've been developing. As my Dad says, I've been busy "playing," trying all kinds of things!
Current Work
Graduate study is definitely a change from the undergraduate learning experience- in a fantastic way. It allows for the artistic exploration that might fail: trying new methods, experimenting with crazy ideas, challenging oneself. Especially in the first semester! I'm trying to make the most of this freedom, by working on as much as possible. It's not finished product yet; it's more like sketching with materials. One piece did turn out like I wanted, and while I will try making it in a fancier material, I can't help but like that it's made from the IKEA table cloths we used for my grandparents 6-th wedding anniversary!
A quick little snapshot of what I've been working on this first semester:
Grad School
Hello All!
I have random interesting thoughts that pop in my head throughout the day, and I wish I could immediately jot them down, for I often forget them quickly. Or perhaps they really aren't that interesting. A recent thought I do recall is my sudden curiosity- when a pet food commercial played on television- if vegetarian/vegan pet owners could or should feed their pets meat? Being neither a vegetarian/vegan or a a pet owner, this dilemma had never crossed my mind. But I'm sure many others have debated this question already. Interesting irony.
Another thought I had this week was how much I missed having a large warehouse of bras at my disposal. Here on campus, I'm no longer surrounded by people who either know how to properly fit a bra (co-workers), or know they need a well-fitted bra (customers). It is oddly frustrating when I hear conversations about bras, and any mention of That Pink Place That Everyone Thinks Is Great will automatically make any comment of mine come out rather snarky. So I usually remain silent. Because if I told them what size I thought they were, 1- they probably wouldn't believe me, and 2-they'd probably be a little weirded out that I observed their chest area so closely.
I can't help it though, and when I see bra bands crawling way up on a lady's back, loose and free and doing nothing for support, I want to tell her there is something better! When I see straps digging into shoulders, desperately trying to hold everything up since the cup is sadly overwhelmed, I want to run to the stockroom, grab the perfect bra, hand the bra to her and say I know I probably look like just some crazy lady with a bra but just try this!
've been debating who to solve this problem, trying to develop a good line or two that will at least hint that I might know a better way to wear a bra in a polite, unobtrusive manner. Oh well.
Sadly I've put off working on my bra pattern development once classes started; I knew there would be an adjustment period to grad school like. But I think I need to try to "fit" my bra development work back into my schedule again... (in all my copious spare time :) )
Gratefulness
Returning to university has proven to be much of what I expected: challenging, intimidating, exciting, funny, exhausting, and incredibly wonderful, all in greater measure than I expected. Despite missing my hometown area and the people there that I love dearly, I am constantly reminded how blessed and grateful I am for this opportunity.
I am also grateful that this opportunity has come along after some life experience, some maturation of my thoughts and attitudes. While I'll never say I've "arrived" and have therefore learned all there is to understand about myself (FAR from that!) I do know myself better than the last time I was in college. So I know that I'm an overachiever, that I have a tendency to throw myself in tasks- immersing myself in fulfilling them to the highest degree that I am confident that I can earn the grade of A.
But this is not always positive, because it is sometimes to the sacrifice of enjoying and learning from the process, or from challenging myself beyond what I know I am capable of completing well. Failure is not an option, but in this mindset neither is challenging myself to do something that could be extraordinarily great. Or something that even in failure, teaches me more than the most beautiful, safe A ever could.
This time around, when I feel myself over-working and over-analyzing and sinking into that mindset, I stop. And I go to the gym, go for a walk, notice the bright sunshine and blue sky and my cozy studio and homey apartment. I try to stop and just be in that moment, that minute- and be grateful for this blessing. Knowing that tomorrow isn't even promised, that today has enough for me to do. And most of the assignments and tasks of grad school are things I want to do anyways! (They're just packed into a little tighter schedule than I'd set for myself, and they do happen to be graded...)
So what an opportunity- I get to do things I like doing, challenge myself to try crazy things, and earn a Master's in the process. Back to my original comment: I am incredibly grateful, and in this mindset I want to pursue these opportunities with great joy!
Testing
If you create a totally new design and have any hope of producing a pattern for sharing (or even loftier goals of producing the garment for sale), you definitely need to do some type of fit testing. And not just on one person of the particular size you've first made; no, there should be many people trying on the garment. The same "size" person can still be a completely differently shaped person from one to the next. This is more and more critical the more fitted the garment. Especially important is fit-testing bras! As you know from my previous posts, I've been working on my own bra patterns for awhile now, and I have a non-wire pattern that I'm pretty happy about. I sewed the garment in both a solid matte jersey and a sheer lace, both of which were pleasing in fit, support, looks, and comfort.
But my evaluation, I thought, was a bit tainted by the focus I'd put on developing the garment. In other words, I feared I'd been "staring at it too long to truly SEE it anymore." I wanted someone else's feedback. And who better to ask to evaluate my bras than the professional team of fitters at my former bra store!
So, I left the bras (and a swim bottom I developed to hug the rear and STAY in place while being active) with the ladies at the store, along with a survey form to give a little guidance to their notes for me. There were options to rate different parts of the fit, as well as more open-ended questions that allowed them to add their own thoughts. After a couple weeks, I returned to pick up the garments and the notes. And what priceless information I had from the surveys! It was fantastic to get feedback from people who just put the garment on without any preconceived notions or thoughts. No knowledge of the three, four, five previous attempts at this garment. No blinders to hide flaws or find ones that don't exist. Furthermore, there are a variety of body types at the store, and having comments from women of different shapes helped me understand if the garments were narrow in focus or could fit a wide range of women. Details such as determining the best length for the straps could be informed by comparing the comments from the petite fitter and the taller one. This kind of information can only be found through this kind of research!
It was a great experience, and one I recommend. If you're a pattern maker, seamstress, and/or designer, I highly encourage you to experience letting someone else evaluate your product as often as possible. It can be a little terrifying to give someone else the opportunity to critique something you've worked so hard to produce, but the feedback you'll get will help you not only on the product you test, but also on future products. You'll have knowledge of fit and end-consumer thought that will make you just that much sharper!
New Adventures
When I move to a new place, I want to be settled as soon as possible. Maybe this tendency to feel temporary in any place I live came from moving so often as a child. And even through college, and then back home afterwards... It never seemed permanent enough to really "set-up" my room, apartment, etc. But when I moved into my previous place, I determined to make holes and hang the pictures on the wall. Find a real place to put everything. And make the place feel as homey as possible. You know what? It felt like my own little home!
So now, whenever I move, I really settle in. And I don't like boxes anywhere, if possible. The only place they need to be seen is in the garage or way up high in a closet, filled with the kind of things you can't seem to throw away but hope someday your grandchildren will delightfully discover in the attic 50 years from now.
It may be extreme, but I've carried this over to traveling and luggage, too. Even if I'm just spending an single night, I try to set things out in a homey, usable fashion. (It's a lot more efficient, too, to not be digging in your suitcase trying to find things!) Making it yours, for however long it may be, lends to a much more comfortable environment.
Therefore, the last week has been a mad dash of cleaning and unpacking. And after all that hard work, it feels like home. It feels like a place welcoming me to crash after a long day on campus, or huddle up inside with good music and wine working on projects late into the night. :)
Bring on grad school! I'm ready!
Big News... and a Red Bikini
Like I said in my previous post, it's been a busy month. In addition to the craziness of summertime holidays and family events, I also have been working on my next adventure: graduate school! While it's been in the back of my mind for some time, it was a rather quick chain of events that confirmed my new direction this fall- and only fully hatched during my 10-year fashion design class reunion in May. It was a flurry of paperwork, calls, visits to the campus, and a mad search for housing (a story in itself). Everything is pretty much in order now: graduate assistant work, apartment, student loan, classes lined up; I even bought the one required book for my classes. (Art majors spend more on supplies than books!!!) It's a great opportunity and I cannot wait to get started!
Still, it hasn't quite sunk in that I'm moving so far away from my family again, but when you feel a direction you can't hesitate. Already I tear up when I think about saying goodbye, knowing I won't see them for probably weeks at a time. I am blessed with the sweetest family, and they are so supportive, so that makes it a little easier. And they're not even complaining about helping me move again! I am so grateful!!!
Now I have to start packing, make sure to take time to hang out with friends and family, and get to actually finishing some projects! In the midst of all the commotion of the past 2 months, I've still managed to make some pretty good progress on some of my projects, but I still have a decent pile.
There are two major accomplishments to report; one deserves it's own post but the other can be told here. I managed to finish a red swimsuit in time for July Fourth. I keep trying new edits to my first triangle cup, hoping to find a good way to add shaping and support to this classic swimwear cut. I also try new things out which each bottom. It turned out pretty good!
Inner power-mesh side/under-bust support; there's also a layer of lining between the cup support layer and outer fabric to hide that seam across the bust from showing through. (Pardon the lining that still needs to be trimmed, and that missed stitch :)
The cups have more inner support than the last one. Somehow the cup got a touch smaller than before, or the fabric is not quite as stretchy. Either way, while it did feel more supportive than the last one, it flattened a bit (a product of being a bit small, I think). So, more tweaking. But progress!
The other challenge I gave myself when constructing this swimsuit was turning out all the seams I could, i.e. making them invisible! And yes, I did sew it incorrectly a few times. The seam ripper was put into action a lot. But I got it, and the smooth, seamless look is really the way to go! I wore it twice over the weekend, and it turned out to be super comfy and cute!
Sometimes You Should Let Go and Play with Glitter
Summertime is always incredibly busy in my family- there are so many birthdays and holidays it seems I'm preparing for one (or 2!) every week. So pardon my lack of posting! I promise I haven't forgotten, and I have a list of at least three topics I want to write about at the moment. But in the interest of doing them justice, I will wait until I have time to properly share my thoughts. I'm not a natural writer like the rest of my siblings. :)
This weekend is the long Fourth of July weekend, and I hope you are planning to enjoy some fun times with family and friends, and fireworks if you enjoy those!
When I was a teenager, my family participated in the local July Fourth festival (the BEST festival on July 4th in my humble opinion! :) ) every year in some capacity. There were parades, wacky raft races, lake poker runs, ski shows, music, food, and of course, fireworks. Oh and a scholarship pageant, that I won my senior year of high school. There was always a lot of crepe paper, tissue paper flowers, glitter, flags, poster board, paint, streamers, balloons, and more filling our house leading up to the festival weekend. It was so much fun!
I haven't even touched glitter in a very, very long time (too messy!), but when my sister and I got asked to help organize the neighborhood bicycle parade, we said yes; and somehow that turned into me decorating my bicycle with paper flowers, poster board, crepe paper... and glitter!
The stuff is SOOO messy. But you know, we could all use a moment of just letting go and playing with glitter. It's pretty, it's soft and fluffy, and it makes signs pop with an extra bit of sparkle. So what if you will find random sparkles of glitter on your floor every once in awhile? It's just a happy, pretty little reminder of a fun day!
Happy July Fourth, friends!
The Polka-Dots
My mom and sister and I took a day trip to the San Antonio Zoo yesterday. I remember going there as a small child; two of the most prominent memories I have are riding an elephant (exciting and terrifying!) and falling in love with the pink flamingoes.
I was very impressed with the zoo; it was beautifully kept and obviously run by people passionate about taking good care of the animals. And as long as was safe for the visitors and animals, there were minimal cages and screens around the enclosures, so you could experience seeing the creatures as up close and naturally as possible. We walked into areas with birds flying around, butterflies fluttering, and got to see a hippo underwater.
As an artist, of course I was inspired by the myriad shapes, colors, and sizes of the animals and their surroundings. (The zoo is filled with colorful plants and flowers, too!) In one of the aviaries, surrounded by birds, I stopped to let these two pheasants walk across the path. And I realized something: they were the originals to sport polka-dot style!
Seriously. Normally we think of zebras or leopards when we think of animal prints, but could we not say the polka dot is one too??? I thought it was just too funny. :) You know, this bird's polka-dots have a nice circular pattern within the dots that would be lovely translated to fabric... #ideas!
How can I spend so much on a bra?!
I couldn't help but share this lively article from a bra fit store somewhere in England. Very informative, and it explains why it's worth it to invest in yourself with some nice lingerie!
The Perfect Plain Tee
I've been on a quest for a smarter wardrobe. One item I really like to wear is a solid-colored tee or tank top for a seasonless, casual look. Paired with shorts and cute sandals for spring and summer, jeans, jacket, and a scarf for winter. The shirt needed to be a nice fabric and well-made. I've looked many places and friend many on- from Target to Ann Taylor and everywhere in between.
I stumbled upon the American Giant brand by accident one day. It's an American company, and all their product is designed, sourced, and made in America. The reviews on their product was fantastic, so I assumed it was probably a pricier line to keep in mind for the future. (After quitting my previous job, I'm back to pretty minimal shopping!) I was pleasantly surprised to see otherwise- a tee is about the same as you'd pay at Ann Taylor. With a little birthday money, I decided to order a V-neck tee and a white tank top. The package came yesterday. I didn't know what to expect.
These products were lovely the moment I opened the box! The fabric is 100% cotton with a nice weight, the sewing is nicer than more expensive items I've seen, and there are small details like reinforcement at the hem and a center back seam that just make it special. And they fit very nicely. I am so impressed.
On top of all that, it's made in the USA! It's so hard to find American-made apparel, and most of the time it is (by necessity- no child labor here!) much more expensive. But these guys are doing something great, I think. Keeping their product line focused and well-edited. Not spending time and money on just saying they have a great product or logo, but rather using that energy on a product that speaks for itself. It's a different way of thinking these days in fashion, but it's one I'm very happy to support.
It's the small things...
The other day I was early to a lunch date with a dear friend, so I popped into Banana Republic to see what Spring/Summer looked like for them. (Fall/Winter was not their best: giant hot pink and olive drab camp made up in odd silhouettes with absolutely NO hanger appeal. No wonder it was all on the sale rack...) So I was curious what direction they went this season.
I was distracted by all other things when I spotted MID-RISE FLARE JEANS! The only cut that's ever made me feel cute in a pair of jeans, and a unicorn to find in the sea of skinnies and high-rises. I'm sorry, but short girls with athletic legs don't work in skinny jeans, and those high-rise waists do nothing for my rear.
I literally did a happy dance in the store. I actually am looking forward to trying them on next time! :)
The perilous world of the Strapless Bra
I came across this image on instagram the other day. I cringed.
The lady in the cream dress is actually the wife of the creator of one of the most identifiable American fashion brands. And this happened to her. Why, why did someone not help her find a good strapless bra???
Fashion socialite or not, at some point in your life you will probably find yourself needing a strapless bra. And in these situations, you should definitely take time and effort to find a GOOD one. One that doesn't make people around you nervous just waiting for a wardrobe malfunction!
Where to start? What makes a good strapless bra? How much should you fork over for one? Ideally, you’re looking for a combination of proper fit (that’s where good support comes from!), attractive shaping, and comfort (but I’ll be honest- beauty is sometimes painful). The best way to shop for a strapless is a place that carries as many brands and styles as possible- because you’ll likely need to try as many as possible ON your body. Online shopping is not advised here! If you’re not near a good department store, or even better a professional fit store, definitely go bra store-hopping. Alot less exciting than bar-hopping, I know, but worth it! And don't scrimp on the price. Find a good deal if you can, but if the one that's $69 feels more secure than the $49 one, trust me the peace of mind is worth it.
So, how does this thing work? What are you looking for it to do? Basically, the only way it stays on your body is through the band, meaning it MUST be snug. Additionally, the heavier the bust, the tighter it will need to be. Second, the cups must be full enough to contain the bust. If the bust spills over the top of the cup, the weight of the bust will push the bra down... and you’ll end up with either a bra around your midriff, or wires digging into your rib cage. Additionally, this kind of bra is made with stiffer wires, more power mush, and often silicone bands to help anchor it in place. All those extra support features can really hurt if anything pokes or digs into your skin. So you want to make sure the bra is working with your body, not against it!
So it’s very important that every detail of the bra fit your body nicely. And when the band and the cup all align beautifully with the your shape, you’ll have a lovely foundation to put underneath your cute outfit! Viola! If you find all this plus some measure of comfort, you have found something special!
I say this because, even as a fitter who probably has fitted thousands of strapless bras, this was the bra I dreaded fitting most. I prided myself on finding the right style and fit for a customer within the first few try-ons. But then the strapless bra would get requested. I’d maintain my confidence, but even sizes and shapes that seemed simple to fit seemed to enjoy challenging me. The fit has to be pretty much perfect. If it’s not, I’d be sending my lady out the door to enjoy a day or evening full of tugging on the bra. Or returning the next day telling me I tried to strangle her with it's uncomfortable wires and silicone sides. Neither is cute. And I have personally experienced both.
To be honest, I am still searching for my perfect strapless bra! Mine looks fantastic under clothes but the silicone kills me in the Texas summertime heat. But I have come to appreciate that I'm asking the bra to fight a lot of gravity. So I’ve accepted that in some ways, strapless bras are akin to my favorite pair of heels- beautiful and lovely, and worn only for very, very deserving cute outfits. :)
The Making of a Dress
Recently I returned to my alma mater for my 10-year fashion design class reunion. Well, of course I wanted a new dress... so I made one! A little sneak peek into the process, minus documentation of the really late night (or 2) I spend hand-hemming the circle skirt and lining.
Still, the skirt draped just the way I wanted- so it was necessary. :)
Heart-Shaped Inspiration
These pictures hang on my wall today, as they have for the past several years. The product of a long-forgotten college class assignment, after graduation they lived in my portfolio of college works until I rediscovered them those several years ago. I liked the bright colors and different attitudes in each picture, so I framed them individually and hung them in a little grouping in my bedroom. When I woke up I'd see them, and they made me smile.
Fast forward to the beginning of the year when I down-sized from a 2-bedroom apartment to a cozy little bedroom at my parents house. These heart-boxes came with me, not relegated to the storage boxes. They inspired me because they were colorful and bright and energetic.
But there was another element of inspiration I totally forgot. You see, these four images were made with four different pastel application techniques: blending, stumbling, feathering, and scraping. It was an exercise and introduction to using this medium...
...and it's now my favorite!
Now when I look at these pieces, I not only see the bright heart-shaped boxes, I also see the beginnings of my art. They definitely will always be hanging on my walls, hopefully in my own studio someday. It's always good to remember where you started. :)
Finishing Something Again!
I FINALLY finished a sewing project again! Ok- I haven't totally been neglecting my sewing; I leave out the wedding gown I altered and the repairs and garment remake jobs I've been working on. But these paying gigs (which I am am SO thankful for!), the recent attention I've placed on my art, and helping my dad at the house build-site (I mean a full-day's hard work cleaning up lumber scraps the framers left everywhere!) have left apparel product development at a standstill.
Top it off with a sewing machine that refused to cooperate until I stopped and gave it some love, oil, and cleaning attention and I've been struggling to finish anything. But today I succeeded in putting together a new swimsuit pattern- triangle top and hip-hugger bottoms. My goals were to make the bottoms flatteringly low-rise while still covering and hugging the bum. I wanted the triangle top to have more shaping and supportive qualities while still looking light and cute.
Yay!
The bottoms really do fully cover my bum, but don't look like granny panties. They've got a retro feel to them. (I kept thinking of the James Bond girls in the 60's and how cute their swimsuits were cut.) For the top, I tried using the nude power mesh I have laying around for bra wings to create an inner support cup. This certainly doesn't turn a simple triangle cup into a cleavage-creating machine, but compared to my other string triangle tops it definitely eliminates some of the pancakey east-west characteristics of this kind of bikini top. I suppose the other option people assume would help fight this look would be padding, but on me it always looks so fake and awkward. Maybe I'll work on combining the two for next time.
Detail of the inner cup; the power-mesh is zig-zagged to the normal lining fabric.
As with any totally new construction, there are a few details I will definitely change next time: tightening the elastic in several places and cutting the leg a little higher in the front. Also, the ties are oddly scratchy; I think it's the grain of the fabric. If only I had access to the materials SeaFolly uses! (Softest swimsuits ever!)
But overall, I'm quite thrilled with how it turned out. It's really a "1st muslin," but I try to make garments I'm pretty certain will turn out ok in wearable fabric. I need a new suntanning suit and this will do quite nicely for that purpose! :D
PS- the bra-making is coming along; I've got 2 in the works. I'll let you know how they turn out!
Lots and lots of pins!
Oh Rickie...
I feel for Rickie Fowler. This post has nothing to do with his surprisingly poor play yesterday in the opening round of the 2016 Masters.
But Rickie- can we work on your wardrobe? I know you like bold, flashy style, which I like too. But let's not put EVERYTHING on in the same outfit. And I'm sorry but tapered skinny pants tucked into high tops doesn't work on the golf course. Or anywhere, really.
I really do hope he has a better outing today. Maybe someday he will learn to use the good pieces of his outfits - like the fabulous jacket he wore yesterday - but leave the silly pants at the store!