The Polka-Dots

My mom and sister and I took a day trip to the San Antonio Zoo yesterday. I remember going there as a small child; two of the most prominent memories I have are riding an elephant (exciting and terrifying!) and falling in love with the pink flamingoes.

I was very impressed with the zoo; it was beautifully kept and obviously run by people passionate about taking good care of the animals. And as long as was safe for the visitors and animals, there were minimal cages and screens around the enclosures, so you could experience seeing the creatures as up close and naturally as possible. We walked into areas with birds flying around, butterflies fluttering, and got to see a hippo underwater.

As an artist, of course I was inspired by the myriad shapes, colors, and sizes of the animals and their surroundings. (The zoo is filled with colorful plants and flowers, too!) In one of the aviaries, surrounded by birds, I stopped to let these two pheasants walk across the path. And I realized something: they were the originals to sport polka-dot style!

Seriously. Normally we think of zebras or leopards when we think of animal prints, but could we not say the polka dot is one too??? I thought it was just too funny. :) You know, this bird's polka-dots have a nice circular pattern within the dots that would be lovely translated to fabric... #ideas!

"What Size Bra do I Wear?"

At the end of a fitting, this was one of the most common questions customers would ask. If I’d been in their position, I’d have asked the same question. This is the answer I’d have gotten:

“A 32DDD in Wacoal, a 32F in Simone Perele, 32E in Fantasie, 34DD in that Goddess sport bra- but we are altering it to be a 32DDD, since they don’t make it in that size. In Chantelle this one is a 32F, this one a 34E. But these are all about the same size, the brands just use different size ranges.”

…and face goes blank with confusion. Can you repeat that in English please???

I suppose it sounds like a special “Bra Language.” But there is a pattern here. The main reason for the different sizes is because these are almost all different brands, who choose to follow a different size range. It’s like metric vs. imperial measuring- you can have the same length in both, but they are going to sound different. If you wrote out a chart, like this, it makes more sense:

Even if you know what size you normally wear in a certain brand, you need to know which size range each brand follows if you’re looking for something new. Some companies do put all the different correlating sizes on the tags, which can help if you’re shopping in person. If you’re purchasing online, make sure you pay attention to what size range the website follows- as you can see those F’s and G’s can be very different physical sizes!

There is still another important oddity in the sizes I wear: how am I two different sizes within the same brand? You’d assume that within a brand you would always wear the same size in everything they made! I mentioned Chantelle as the brand I wore in two different sizes, because I actually have both in my lingerie drawer. Already I owned two Chantelle 32F’s that I loved, a t-shirt bra and a plunge style. So I then wanted to try the lovely demi bras that Chantelle is known for; of course I ordered a 32F. But when I put it on, oh the wires under my arm were so uncomfortable!

Why did this style suddenly not work? Mostly, it was because I was moving to a different style. Brands want to create variety to cover as many body types and market demands as possible, and the demi style wasn't as well suited to my shape. Additionally, sometimes you will find places where size jumps (grading is the technical term) are a bit skewed on purpose for certain sizes. Fuller cups need more support, and the construction may change ever so slightly at certain sizes to accomodate this. If you look closely at bras, you might notice these little changes. Some styles jump to wider straps at a certain size, or in this case the F and above wires become taller than the E and below.

That pink bra is waaaay taller under the arm! Ouch!

This bra was quite beautiful, and I didn't want to give up that easily. I noticed the wire change, so I tried the sister size 34E. By going up in the band, I wore the E cup, just before the wire sizing jump. It worked! The cup was much, much more comfortable and still supportive for my frame. The band is a little loose, so I'll alter it to make it more like a 32. Yay! :)

Now, this doesn't always work; sometimes it's best to just let certain styles go and move on. The Natori feathers lace bra is wildy popular at the moment, and it fits many women beautifully- but I am not one of them. I've tried to make it work many times, but it just doesn't. And that's ok. I'd rather have something that fits!

As a fitter, I got in the habit of trying on as many styles as possible, to learn these little details of fit and sizing. Sometimes I was surprised by what worked on me, and what didn't! When you’re shopping for bras, don't be afraid of trying all kinds of bras. Or, find an experienced professional fitter. A good one will know the product well and help you save alot of time trying to learn the nuances in all the different brands.

Now that you know some of the basics, you can understand why you might end up in a few different sizes. And that's ok! Forget the label and spend more time focusing on what you feel fantastic wearing. :)

Update on the Bra-Making...

Thought I’d give you all a little update on the bra-making process! It’s going slowly, but well; every version has improvements. As long as there are positive adjustments, however small, I am making progress! 

Carefully noting my measurements and changes along the way.

Grading up to my size was successful, I think. Now I can wear test this thing!

The baby bra with it's mama... haha!

Inevitably, I always end up having to get out the seam ripper. Why is it always the smallest stitches that end up needing to be redone??

The non-wire now sports an inner side support, which greatly reduced the east-west spreaded shape that is always a challenge to combat in a non-wire style. A small but important addition!

The wire bra is still creating strange east-west cone shapes… but not as badly as the last one. Again, progress!

It may have a funny shape, but it does support- and it looks feminine!

I keep thinking about trying to copy a bra I already like to make a pattern off that, but that would be cheating I think. Part of the process is understandig what doesn’t work in addition to what does. The more you understand the construction of a garment, the better you can manipulate it to do creative things! So don’t cut corners! :)

Cold Januarys

This past weekend found me battling a cold on a cold January Sunday, so I curled up on the couch to watch tv and scan through the Fall 2016 Mens fashion shows on Vogue.com.

This jacket from Belstaff caught my eye; the detailed leatherwork in between the fluff. It looks fantastic. I'd wear it myself!

On another note- rugged is a good look but the model is so sharp he's a bit scary, don't you think?